Trailer question

[skysailor]

Have to go about 600 miles to pick up my new bike. Has anybody ever used a U-Haul trailer for a bike? Looking to do it on the cheap here...but would like to make it in one piece! It's BMW, hence I'm asking on the Euro forum.

[UncleErnie]

<div>It's been some years, but the last time I checked, U-Haul didn't have a great maintenance record. Go over everything before leaving the lot. If it has real small wheels, stop for a cool down once in a while.</div><div> </div><div>If the bike's in good shape, I'd sleep on the Greyhound on the way up and ride back.</div>

[EdgyDrifter]

<div>When I bought my Seca, it was barely in running condition, and certainly not <em>safe</em> running condition (bald tires, old oil, rusty chain, scary clatter in the top end, etc.).</div><div> </div><div>Rather than get a trailer, I just rented a small U-Haul moving truck and secured the bike with ratchet straps to four points inside the box. That bike wouldn't have moved an inch unless I rolled the truck!</div>

[Zonhonker]

<div>If you have a friend who can loan you a pickup truck for the price of a case of beer or tickets to a game.....that would work. But you need a ramp to load it and I think you can buy one for about 50 bucks.</div><div> </div><div>Have a safe trip.</div>

[Zonhonker]

<div>Oh yeah...one more thing....check your tie down straps after about the first 10 miles...then every time you stop.</div>

[PassTheGravy]

Skysailor: What part of the country are you in? I'm in Dallas and have a trailer you can borrow if you are in this general area.

[Devlin_Tripp]

<div>I rented one a few weeks ago. I didn't have any problems, but then again I was only going about 30 miles. It cost me $15 a day for the trailer.</div>

[skysailor]

Pass the gravey...thanks for the kind offer. The bike is in WI, and I'm in Kenora Canada. But, if I'm ever in Dallas...<br>Bike is in good shape. I just may not have a great weather &quot;window&quot; and a trailer would not make that an issue. A pickup would probably be best, but I think I'm stuck with the trailer idea.

[carlo]

I've carried a bike on a u-haul flatbed trailer. From San Francisco to Eugene, Oregon. About the same distance you're talking about. Worked ok.<br><br>Ernie's suggestion about cooling down is a good idea. If they haven't attended to the wheel bearings recently, you don't want them to get hot.<br>A half hour stop every hundred miles or so could make the difference between a seized bearing, and reaching your destination.<br><br>If you've never done it before, make sure the front wheel is prevented from turning. That can cause the tie-downs to go loose, and the whole thing falls apart after that.<br><br>I usually just tie my front wheel to the stake rails at the front of the trailer. I've also screwed wooden blocks into the bed of the trailer either side of the tire.

[skysailor]

Nope. Never done it before. But, I'm picking the bike up at a dealer...so I'll let them tie the thing down.

[Kev_M]

<div></div><div>Couple of years back I had to pick up the Jackal from Upstate NY in the dead of winter (when I bought it) and bring it back to PA.</div><div> </div><div>I used a Uhaul. Heavy duty unit with big tires and a large, low, ramp/gate. Excellent. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.</div><div> </div><div>Some more pointers - DO NOT overtighten and bottom the suspension using the front straps.</div><div> </div><div>AND</div><div> </div><div>BE SURE to use straps on the REAR too. If the bike can **bleep** sideways at all it can loosen the front straps.</div><div> </div><div>http://forums.cycleworld.com/attachments/cycleworld/bikes_european/966/1/JackHaul22524119.jpg</div><p>Message Edited by Kev_M on <span class="date_text">03-28-2007</span><span class="time_text">03:50 PM</span></p>

[braddog]

<div>I rented a U-Haul to haul a bike approximately 350 miles, 700 mile total round trip. In other words, I rented a trailer from U-Haul, pulled it 350 miles to where I needed to pick up the bike, loaded the bike with the help of a 2X6 used as a ramp, and tied it down with 4 tie-down straps that I got at Menard's for $10 for a pack of 4. </div><div> </div><div>The thing trailered like a dream, I stopped periodically to check the straps and the wheels, which had decent tires, and never got hot. I averaged probably 65 MPH the whole way home. I think I paid $15 for the day. It was well worth it, in my opinion.</div>

[PassTheGravy]

I like to err on the side of caution, so I always use four tiedowns on the front and two at the back. The back ones should be attached to the frame somewhere where they wont rub the paint. You don't need to compress the rear suspension of the bike. The back ones are just to keep the bike from moving side to side.<br><br>On the front, I pick a stable tie down point on the bike that won't rub the paint, such as a lower triple clamp or somesuch and use that as the main tiedowns. You will want to compress the forks about 1/2 way (but no more). Then I put one tiedown on the handlebars on each side just as a backup in case one of the main tie downs works lose or breaks. I don't like to use the handlebars as the main tiedown because a really big jolt could bend them.<p>Message Edited by PassTheGravy on <span class="date_text">03-28-2007</span><span class="time_text">10:02 PM</span></p>

[carlo]

Get some good quality cam-lock type straps. Ancra is the best known name, and they work well. They're so much easier to use than the ratchet type straps. I've never had a problem with them in 20 some years of hauling vintage bikes to shows and swap meets. All motorcycle shops carry them.<br>I've carried two bikes side-by-side in my Toyota pickup many times. Never had a problem.<br>If the front wheels are prevented from turning, two straps per bike are sufficient, but I like the &quot;belt and suspenders&quot; approach of using straps at the front and back just in case.<br>You can get nylon loops that can be used to keep the strap hardware away from painted parts on the bike. These work well when using the lower triple clamp as the tie points at the front. The loops are attached to the bike, then the tie down hooks are attached to the loops.<br>I also use socks with worn out heels to cover the clamping hardware on the straps. Cut the toe off, and fold the sock back so you have two layers that thread onto the strap through the holes in the toe and heel.<br>I use bungee cords to manage the ends of the straps. Just loop them back through the hooks or tie down points, then use a bungee cord stretched between the ends of two straps (assuming your straps have loops in the ends, which most do). This is a lot easier than trying to tie the ends of the straps to something, and guarantees that there's nothing to flap about in the wind.

[UncleErnie]

<div>&quot;get nylon loops that can be used to keep the strap hardware away from painted parts&quot;</div><div> </div><div>Ask for <u>soft ties</u></div>

[PassTheGravy]

They call them &quot;hog ties&quot; at the HD shops.