hey terry!!!!!! do you have any experience with.....

[hacksaw]

<div>liquid wheel balancers?</div><div> </div><div>i just had some nice tyres mounted up for a magwheel sportster. i dont care much about the back wheel, but the front i would like to balance. my buddy swears by this **** ya squirt into the air valve that supposed to make your wheel spin itself into balance. kind of gyroscopic i guess.</div><div> </div><div>ya know anything about that?</div><div>how does it work in theory ?</div><div> </div><div>and if i do this, should i strip off the existing weights off the rim first?</div><div> </div><div>thanks for a reply.</div><div> </div><div> </div>

[andoulli]

<div>I have no experience with these products, though I did do a search and found this.</div><div> </div><div>&quot;Both liquid and powder in-tire balancers can cause problems with clogged valve stems.&quot;</div><div> </div><div>Tim</div>

[ZRX4ME]

<div>Hey Hack!</div><div> DONT use it.The liquid makes a huge mess, and Ive balanced wheels that had the crap in it. Every time at bat, the weight would change.</div><div> Go to Marc Parnes.com, this is the balancer I use. Accurate to within 1/8 oz, can put in a tankbag or toolbox, can use anything from jackstands to lawn chairs for support.Ive done 90+ bike tires with it, never a problem.</div><div>Terry</div>

[Fireballsocal]

<div> yes, they do work and yes, they make a mess while possibly clogging the valve stem. hard core 4x4's use lead shot, bb's, etc. to balance the tires. You hear the bb's when coming to rest but once they start spinning, the wheel will balance out due to centrifugal force.</div>

[hacksaw]

<div></div><div><br><blockquote><div><hr>H9r wrote:<br><div>Oh -</div><div><hr></div><div>3. <strong>The use of another member's name in either the title of a topic or in your signature, especially in an insulting or derogatory manner, is EXPRESSLY FORBIDDEN.</strong> If you wish to contact another user, please do so by Private Messenger or e-mail. The only exceptions to this rule will be in rare instances when such options have been exhausted, and we will delete such messages after the intended contact has indicated he/she has seen the message, or after no response has been received in a reasonable period of time. In addition, messages in the &quot;Feedback&quot; area ONLY may be addressed to a moderator or administrator.</div><div><hr></div><br><hr></div></blockquote>i found no one listed in the members as terry.<br><div></div></div>

[hacksaw]

<div><div><br><blockquote><div><hr>ZRX4ME wrote:<br><div>Hey Hack!</div><div> DONT use it.The liquid makes a huge mess, and Ive balanced wheels that had the crap in it. Every time at bat, the weight would change.</div><div> Go to Marc Parnes.com, this is the balancer I use. Accurate to within 1/8 oz, can put in a tankbag or toolbox, can use anything from jackstands to lawn chairs for support.Ive done 90+ bike tires with it, never a problem.</div><div>Terry</div><br><hr></div></blockquote><br><div></div></div>i am sold. but what do i get? the universal model? i would be doing harleys, mostly older ones, and old bsa's and triumphs and other 60-70-80's bikes. and it looks like there are 3 versions of the universal one?</div><div> </div><div>the cones actually fit into the bearing? what if the bearing is a bit recessed from flush , or does the first question cover that?</div><div>so i assume you keep spinning and adding weights untill the wheel stops at all different spots. </div><div>do you remove the rotor and sprocket?</div><div> </div>

[ZRX4ME]

<div></div><div>Hey Hack!!</div><div> Go to the Parnes site, give him a call, he'll set you right up.</div><div> I use the standard cones, plus I have the wider axle as well for the sport bikes with the 180+mm gumballs on the rear.</div><div> I also have the special cone for a BMW R1150R I used to service.</div><div> Here is the way I do this:</div><div> Front-- short axle through the bearings, the cones will fit into the bearings. Center the axle, tighten one cone's wingbolt, then push the other cone into the opposite-side bearing. Make sure the wingbolts are 180 degrees from eachother. The bearings in the balancer blocks are so low friction, if the wingbolts are facing the same way, the wheel will rotate. Place the wheel/balancer assembly on 2 stands level within 1/2&quot; of eachother under the bearing blocks. Let the wheel rotate until it stops, then using a yellow tire crayon, mark the center top. This will be the lightest spot. Rotate 90 degrees one way, see if it stops in the same area. Rotate 90 degrees the other side, do the same. Remark as necessary to get the light spot at dead center top.By rotating 90 degrees, with practice you can judge the amount of weight neded to keep the wheel from rotating no matter where you stop it. Place the estimated weight lightly centered at the yellow mark.</div><div> I use regular strips of automotive 1/4 oz break-off adhesive weights.</div><div> With the rear, I use the longer axle, the same procedure, but remove the sprocket carrier and dampers if so equipped.</div><div> Ive had wheels Ive balanced checked on electronic Coates balancers, were right on the $$.</div><div> I clean the rim surface with brake cleaner or windex, and barely stick the estimated amount of weight and check. I can then add, or cut weight with diagonal cutters as needed.</div><div> The 1st time might take you 15-20 minutes to get perfect, after than it'll go real quick, say 3 minutes per.</div><div> And Ive cit the 1/4 oz weights into halves, even thirds to get just right. Even Parnes will tell you it wont matter at that small a division, and some wheel will never be exactly dead still.</div><div> Quick, cheap, no storage problem, no power required, no calibration issues, no exposed bearings--and most of all, effective.</div><div> Hack, I do my CB750K, so it should work on your vintage machines as well.</div><p>Message Edited by ZRX4ME on <span class="date_text">03-14-2007</span><span class="time_text">01:34 AM</span></p>

[Fireballsocal]

<div>It wasn't the speed so much as the amount of weight needed on the 4x4 tires. The swampers, in their larger sizes, routinely are out of balance by pounds, not ounces. It get's time consuming balancing them. Do it yourselfers figured out the bb trick. Many are driven on the streets mot of their life anyway. Mall wheelers. For a bike, Terry's balancer would be the best bet. The liquid/powder will work in a pinch though.</div>

[hacksaw]

<div>terry- thank you much. this seems like high tech (the quality of the mechanism) and simplicity of old fashioned manually accomplishing a task, mix quite well. sincerely appreciated. </div>

[ZRX4ME]

<div>GLAD to help, Hack!!</div>